Saturday, 15 August, 2020
Backyard Golf Practice Cage - Practice your golf in the backyard!
WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 4586 [post_author] => 1 [post_date] => 2020-07-15 00:45:47 [post_date_gmt] => 2020-07-15 00:45:47 [post_content] =>

Specifications:

 

Color:Black/Green

Cloth Material:210D high Oxfort

Net Material:Polyester

Bottom: Oxford fabric

2 M/78.7 in:

Width: 200cm(outer), 180cm(inner)

Net depth: 1200mm

Net height: 1350mm

Weight:1.5kg

3 M/118.11 in:

Width: 300cm(outer), 240cm(inner)

Net depth: 1800mm

Net height: 2000mm

Weight:3kg

Package Content:

 

1 x Golf Driving Net

1 x Set of Fiberglass Bars

1 x Pole storage bag

1 x Carry storage bag

1 x Target sheet

1 x User manual

4 x Ground pegs

Overview:

 

This is a fantastic golf practice net cage for any golfer to practice outdoors in the comfort of their own backyard or nearby Park.

The golf training net is made with high-quality materials for durability and safety , easy to set up and take down in seconds. -Polyester floor collects golf balls for easy pick up. Come with polyester carrying bag for easy storage and transport.

[post_title] => Backyard Golf Practice Cage [post_excerpt] => Overview: This is a fantastic golf practice net cage for any golfer to practice outdoors in the comfort of their own backyard or nearby Park. The golf training net is made with high-quality materials for durability and safety , easy to set up and take down in seconds. -Polyester floor collects golf balls for easy pick up. Come with polyester carrying bag for easy storage and transport. [embed]https://vimeo.com/439216347[/embed] [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => golf-cage-practice-net-garden-backyard-outdoor-training-aid-2m-3m [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2020-07-27 07:38:54 [post_modified_gmt] => 2020-07-27 07:38:54 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://shop.ideas2live4.com/product/golf-cage-practice-net-garden-backyard-outdoor-training-aid-2m-3m/ [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => product [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )
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The DIYer's Combo Deal - Save $9.90
WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 3388 [post_author] => 638 [post_date] => 2018-04-01 17:09:40 [post_date_gmt] => 2018-04-01 07:09:40 [post_content] => Three essential tools for every handyman or woman. Includes our magnetic WristBuddy, an extendable, flexible magnetic flashlight and our three function COB headlamp!

1 - Magnetic WristBuddy:

The magnetic WristBuddy keeps everything within easy reach whether you’re under the hood, squeezing into a bathroom cabinet, up a ladder or just nailing a few 4×2’s together! Designed to hold lots of screws, nails, nuts and washers, the magnets are amply strong enough to also hold drill bits, hex keys, bolts, screwdrivers and even spanners. Made from extremely durable 1680D Oxford cloth, your WristBuddy will be with you for years to come.

2 - Magnetic, Extendable, Flexible Flashlight

  The perfect tool for finding that lost screw that rolled under your workbench or the pins that dropped onto the carpet! This bright, COB LED flashlight extends to a full 60cm (2ft), has a flexible neck and a strong magnet in the lens surround. It's also a wonderful aid for anyone with bad knees.

3 - Three Function COB LED Headlamp

How often have you wished for better lighting while doing a job? All you needed was a third hand with a flashlight, right? This tough, fully adjustable headlamp uses the latest Chip On Board LED technology for maximum performance. Set it for bright, normal or strobe function with a click of the switch. Weighing just 65 grams (2.25 oz), including the three AAA batteries, our headlamp can be worn hour after hour. And because it's both shock and water resistant, it's great for camping and fishing as well as in the home and workshop.

Special offer:

Bought separately, these three items are currently selling for a combined total of $27.40. For this week only, we have packaged all three for just $17.50 including free delivery. Please note that there is a limit of three combo packs per customer. [add_to_cart id="3388"]   [post_title] => The DIYer's Combo Deal [post_excerpt] => Three essential tools for every handyman or woman. Includes our magnetic WristBuddy, an extendable, flexible magnetic flashlight and our high-powered COB headlamp! The perfect gift for any DIYer! Maximum of three combo packs per customer. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => the-diyers-combo-deal [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-11 00:01:10 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-11 00:01:10 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => http://deals.thediy.market/?post_type=product&p=3388 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => product [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 11 [filter] => raw )
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Build the Kids a Pallet Playhouse!
The end result... lots of fun, some hard work and all for just $200

Build the Kids a Pallet Playhouse!

Step 12:  Making the frame for the windows- Pt 3

Making the window frames - Pt3
Making the window frames – Pt3

I countersunk a hole at four corners for a 2″ deck screw. I had them left over from an earlier project, so while they weren’t free, they were in inventory.

Step 13: Frame for the Windows, cont.

Framing the windows - 4
Framing the windows – 4

I finished the double windows by backing the frame with more 1×4’s. I just butted them together.¬†The first picture shows the first two boards (horizontal, in the background and foreground. The board perpendicular is shown in the proper position in picture number (2).¬†I put two 1″ wood screws in each corner, driven straight through into the undelying frame. You’ll want to countersink them.

Step 14: Building the double “ice cream window”

Building the double 'ice cream window'
Building the double ‘ice cream window’

Here they are, complete and ready for their casing. This will be the front, gable-end double window.

Step 15: Ice cream window, continued

Building the double 'ice cream window' - 2
Building the double ‘ice cream window’ – 2

I built a frame for the whole works out of some 2×6 lumber a nice guy in a nearby town gave me. He posted it on Craigslist and gave me a whole bunch of 2×6’s, 2×8’s,¬†and 2×10’s. The joints are simply butted and screwed together with two inch deck screws.¬†The “hinges” are pieces of an old dowel I had.

I would later build a rough opening for the whole thing, slide it in, and fasten it with long screws into the playhouse. I measured ahead; the overall depth of the window matched combined width of the framing, the siding, and the interior paneling. It was a simple matter to attach mouldings to the exterior and interior when it was time for the finish work. I also later added two handles, some wood strips to make it weather-tight, and a simple hook and eye lock to keep it shut when not in use.

If you look at the finished product in the later photos, you’ll see that there are also wooden “x’s” in each pane. These were simply glued, directly to the glass.

Image Notes
1. I made the “hinges” from an old wood dowel.

Step 16: The diamond-shaped porthole

Making the diamond shaped window
Making the diamond shaped window

The diamond window was easy. I made the frame the same way, then cut a diamond shape and screwed it to the top. I glazed it later on with some old window putty to make it water tight.

Step 17: Finally– the real work! The playhouse floor/deck.

Setting the floor and deck
Setting the floor and deck

I finally got tired of fooling around in the garage and decided to get started. It was cold (February), but I was eager and full of energy after being shut up all winter.¬†I salvaged a bunch of old 4×4’s and set them on some bricks and cinder blocks (all free). I built a 8×10 square from reclaimed pressure-treated 2×4’s I got from a guy¬†who had torn down his deck. He posted them on craigslist and I’ve been using them for every single project I’ve done over the last few years. He gave me almost 500 linear feet of 2×6’s!

I leveled the whole thing by adding and removing bricks. You’ll want to do that under the 4×4’s.¬†When it was close, I laid across the pallet 2×4’s using the center 4×4 as a stringer. This worked very well as I did not need to cut any of the 2×4’s– I simply laid them¬†side to side.

Notice the funky pallet 2×4’s in the picture– they have small, half-oval sections missing. This is where you would slide in the pallet jack.

The overall area is approx. 8×10. The playhouse itself is 8X8, the two-foot protruding section is where the deck will go.¬†Throughout the build process, I constantly had to adjust spacing and the like to accomodate the roughly 4-foot 2×4’s and 30″ 1x (one by) lumber.¬†I had various pieces of plywood for the floor, but I also had to make sure that the floor joists were no further apart than 15″, in case I had to use any of the 1×6’s. Why¬†15″? Because the short lengths of lumber need to have an alternating “butt” end, much like brickwork. A long, continuous joint would be too weak. By alernating, you¬†add strength.

Step 18: Floor, continued

Laying the floor
laying the floor

The particleboard came from….what else? Pallets. I actually grabbed a bunch of them just for the 3/4 inch particleboard. The underlying wood, the 2×4’s and the 1x’s weren’t really up to par (they were oak and hard as granite), but I found a use for them here and there.¬†The particleboard caused me some concern later when it began to rain. I thought they’d fall apart, but they actually held up well.

You can see the middle beam where the 2×4’s meet really well in this picture. I toe-nailed all the 2x lumber to the 4×4’s, every two feet or so. This is important– I may¬†want to move the whole structure at a later date.

Step 19: Framing

The frame goes up
The frame goes up

The frame goes up:
I actually ended up running out of 4-foot pallet 2×4’s and purchased approx. (20) bargain 2×4’s for a dollar each. They weren’t exactly straight, but for $20, it wasn’t bad.¬†Notice the 2×6 and 2×8 headers. This was more free wood I got off of Craigslist.
There are two¬†doors, one in the front and one in the back. In this photo, you can see the rough opening for the diamond-shaped window and the front door. The 2×4 at the¬†bottom of the doorway was cut¬†out later.

The 2×4’s, spliced together and ugly, are 15″ inches apart. This is because the siding will be 30″ pieces of 1×4, with a staggered vertical seam.¬†If you need some help with basic framing, check out google– there are some great sites out there. Basically, though, you should worry about optimizing the material you¬†have without sacrificing safety.¬†The tarp was to keep everything dry until the roof went up.

 Step 20: Framing, continued

Splicing the 4x2's
Splicing the 4×2’s

I never imagined just what a pain in the butt it would be to splice (scab) the 4-foot 2×4’s together. The wood was really hard and overall it just was not fun. I gave up on¬†anything being square almost immediately.¬†Because I planned on siding the playhouse with the 30″ pallet 1×4’s and 1×6’s, each stud was placed 15″ on center, rather than 16″. This allowed me to stagger the¬†vertical joints.

Step 21: Ice cream window framing

Framing the 'ice cream window'
Framing the ‘ice cream window’

This header is most likely overkill, but I wanted a very large opening. Some day, when the kids outgrow this, it’ll be converted into a garage for a riding mower. This will¬†give me a very large door!¬†It is dimensional lumber (ie, it really is 2″ thick and 6″ wide, not 1.5″ and 5.5″). There are two pieces sandwiched together.

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