Thinking of improving your outdoor living space? Adding outdoor furniture is great when you have a roof to protect cushions against sudden rain. But if you have a wonderful open space, then this fire pit swing set is perfect for you!
A fire pit swing set like this not only adds appeal to your home, but is also a wonderful venue for spending quality time with family and friends. The owner/builder of this swing set decided he would make one for his grown up kids, and sure enough they frequently use it to hang out with their friends and family.
Getting this project started could be a little challenging for some for its hexagonal shape. But once you get all the accurate measurements and cuts, putting it all together would be relatively fast and easy. You could buy a swing set from a manufacturer to save time and effort, or you could build them yourself using reclaimed lumber if you want. Same is true with the fire pit.
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- 6 pcs 6″x6″x10′ pressure treated boards for the posts.
- 6 pcs 6″x6″x8′ pressure treated boards for the beams.
- Note: You can safely go as long as 10-12 feet with 6×6 beams but prices go up quickly and dramatically for benches over 5 feet long.
- 6 pcs 2’x6″x8′ pressure treated lumber for the top braces.
- 24 pcs 1/2×8″ galvanized lag bolts to attach the beams to the posts.
- 24 pcs 1/2″ galvanized washers.
- 24 pcs 4″ deck screws to attach the beams to each other.
- 24 pcs 3″ deck screws to attach the braces to the beams.
- Some additional 3″ deck or drywall screws to use for temporarily attaching braces.
- 10-14 pcs 2″x2″x8′ white pine boards to use as braces, layout posts and anchors.
- 6-8 pcs 50-60 pound bags of concrete.
- 6 pcs Paver base for drainage under the posts.
- 4’ long steel rebar – to mark the center point
- Stain or water seal – for the structure
- Material of your choice for the fire pit
- Landscape adhesive – to glue the fire pit together
- Topsoil – to level the area as needed
- Grass seed or sod – to cover any remaining bare dirt
- Galvanized or stainless eye bolts or swing hangers with locking nuts and washers, 7”
- A couple of decent A-Frame Ladders
- Power Miter Saw
- Post Hole Digger
- Sledge Hammer
- A rock-breaking rod (heavy steel rod with one sharp and one hammer end) if you have a rocky yard.
- Post level
- Line level
- Box Beam Level (preferably a 6-footer or longer)
- Tape Measure
- Layout String
- Speed Square to mark boards
- Carpenters Pencil
- Marking Paint – to mark the layout on the ground
- A Large Plastic Mixing Bin and Hoe – for the concrete
- Cordless Drill and Bits – for the deck screws
- 12” long 3/8 in drill bit to drill holes for the lag bolts.
- 12” long bit to drill holes for the swing hangers, diameter of the bolts or slightly larger.
- 1 1/4 Forstner or similar bit to countersink the lag bolts/washers.
- #8 pilot bit for the deck screws
- Socket and Socket Wrench for the lag bolts
- Brushes for the stain.
- Router and round-over bit – to round over the edges of your 6×6 boards (optional)
- Belt Sander(optional)
- Gloves and Goggles
- One or more 6×6 tarps to auger through if you want to keep your grass intact (optional)
- You will also need to rent a 2-man power auger and an 8 or 10 inch auger bit with an extension. Ask a friend to help with the auger. I used a 1 man auger and it practically killed me. Not recommended.
You will want to start with a level area that is maybe 5 feet larger than the structure you intend to build in every direction, or about 25 feet across if you stay close to the dimensions here. If it isn’t perfectly level, that is OK, but you will want to level it AFTER you build the structure. It makes no sense to level first only to have to dig deeper holes for the posts. If possible pick a spot that gets shade for much of the day but it cannot have tree branches directly overhead.
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