– Start by making sure that the “A5” and each “D1” piece fits between the drawer glides. Mount the pieces in the drawer glides with screws and verify they glide well.
– Attach the drawer pull to the front piece “D4”.
– Build up the drawers as shown in the picture below with pieces “D2, D3 and D4”. Glue and nail.
– Apply glue to the bottom of the drawer sides and attach to the “D1” pieces. Make sure to offset the drawer side assembly back from the drawers bottoms “D1” to allow clearance of the drawer pull. If you don’t do this, the drawer pull will interfere with the door closing.
– Apply edge tape to all exposed edges and sand.
Optional step: I added dummy filler plates of 1/4″ wood in 2 places. They can be cut quickly on the band-saw.
– Add a filler plate to the left of “D’ so you cant see the cabinet insides when you open the right side door. Glue in lace and add some painters tape to hold while it dries. See picture below.
– Add a filler plate at the roof of the component cavity so you cant see the component cavity inside when the flap lid is open. Screw from underneath. See picture below.
Our goal here is to remove all the pieces from the cabinet now to do final spackling, sanding and painting.- Remove all pieces from the cabinet that are not glued.
– Lay them out on surfaces or tables.
– Spackle all nail holes, gouges and scratches with a putty knife. Wait for it to dry.
– Sand everything with 100 grit paper that feels rough to your hand. Use a combination of random orbital sander, sanding block and sand paper in your hand.
– Wipe off all sanding sawdust. Clean your shop area to prepare for painting.
The best way to paint a cabinet like this is with an HVLP sprayer system. They are expensive, require a spray booth and… I dont have one. So, I used a brush, paint and a finish coat of polyurethane to cover this cabinet.Experiment with multiple coats of paint and urethane to get the finish you want before painting the cabinet.
I used Home Depot, “Decorator White” Behr Premium Plus Ultra which is primer and paint together and is water based. It still takes 3 coats of this paint to cover the wood.
I put a few finish coats of Minwax satin water based poly. The poly keeps things like books and picture frames from sticking to the paint when you put them on it.
– Paint all parts of the cabinet that will be visible. Paint the remaining trim pieces and bottom pieces to be used in the final assembly.
This Cabinet is heavy. I built mine in my basement and needed a strong friend to help me carry it upstairs (thanks Troy!). I wanted as few things attached as possible while I moved it to reduce weight so I did the final assembly upstairs. I recommend the same for you.
After the paint has dried, you are ready to move it. Before you move it. Make sure you have prepared any wiring or cables that will need to go into the cabinet.
– Move the cabinet carefully. When it is in place, get all your wiring into the cabinet. Mount the doors and place the top on the cabinet.
– Make sure that you dont have more than 1/8 ” from the cabinet top edge to your walls. If you do, the caulk may nut hold and you’ll need to insert filler pieces.
– Mount the Firgelli lift in the cabinet. Make sure the roller wheels are mounted properly on top. Test the operation of the lift going up and opening the flap door smoothly. Test that the lift goes down nicely and the flap door shuts. Watch carefully and keep your finger near the controls in case you see a potential problem.
– Attach the top to the cabinet carcass with L brackets as shown in the picture below. This will make for easy removal.. just in case. Put the L brackets in any area that the top may try to rise up a little. I used 4 L brackets.
Install the TV per the Firgelli manual:
– Lay the TV down on a flat rug and install the 4 brackets to the TV. Slide in the 2 black “wing” pieces.
– Attach the Lift top housing to these “wing” pieces.
– Carefully, Add the TV with lift top to the top of the lift secure it with the 4 bolts.
– Connect all your cables to the Power, cable box, receiver, IR sensors etc.
– Test that your TV lift works!!
Now it’s time to add the following trim pieces:
1 BB2 Bottom Block 86 ¾ x 2 ¾
1 BB4 Bottom Block 26 ½ x 2 ¾
1 T1 Big Molding 86
1 T2 Big Molding 26 1/4
1 T3 Big Molding 86 1/2
1 T4 Big Molding 26 3/4
– The lengths of these pieces should be long. You will need to measure, trim and install them.
– Install “BB2” and “BB4” per the drawings. Make sure to cut mitered joints where they meet.
– Install “T2” and “T1” moldings on the top per the drawings. Make sure to cut mitered joints where they meet.
– Install “T3” and “T4” moldings on the bottom per the drawings. Make sure to cut mitered joints where they meet.
– spackle, sand with 220 grit paper and touch-up paint all mitered joints and holes.
This is a big project but it is very rewarding. If you want you can choose to add a shelf for your next project!
By building this TV lift cabinet, your living room could be improved a lot, having no visible wires and players to clutter the place. To some, it might even serve to protect electronics from burglars. Who would think there’s a TV in there?
Thanks to ihart for this great project.