Saturday, 15 August, 2020
Backyard Golf Practice Cage - Practice your golf in the backyard!
WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 4586 [post_author] => 1 [post_date] => 2020-07-15 00:45:47 [post_date_gmt] => 2020-07-15 00:45:47 [post_content] =>

Specifications:

 

Color:Black/Green

Cloth Material:210D high Oxfort

Net Material:Polyester

Bottom: Oxford fabric

2 M/78.7 in:

Width: 200cm(outer), 180cm(inner)

Net depth: 1200mm

Net height: 1350mm

Weight:1.5kg

3 M/118.11 in:

Width: 300cm(outer), 240cm(inner)

Net depth: 1800mm

Net height: 2000mm

Weight:3kg

Package Content:

 

1 x Golf Driving Net

1 x Set of Fiberglass Bars

1 x Pole storage bag

1 x Carry storage bag

1 x Target sheet

1 x User manual

4 x Ground pegs

Overview:

 

This is a fantastic golf practice net cage for any golfer to practice outdoors in the comfort of their own backyard or nearby Park.

The golf training net is made with high-quality materials for durability and safety , easy to set up and take down in seconds. -Polyester floor collects golf balls for easy pick up. Come with polyester carrying bag for easy storage and transport.

[post_title] => Backyard Golf Practice Cage [post_excerpt] => Overview: This is a fantastic golf practice net cage for any golfer to practice outdoors in the comfort of their own backyard or nearby Park. The golf training net is made with high-quality materials for durability and safety , easy to set up and take down in seconds. -Polyester floor collects golf balls for easy pick up. Come with polyester carrying bag for easy storage and transport. [embed]https://vimeo.com/439216347[/embed] [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => golf-cage-practice-net-garden-backyard-outdoor-training-aid-2m-3m [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2020-07-27 07:38:54 [post_modified_gmt] => 2020-07-27 07:38:54 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => https://shop.ideas2live4.com/product/golf-cage-practice-net-garden-backyard-outdoor-training-aid-2m-3m/ [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => product [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw )
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The DIYer's Combo Deal - Save $9.90
WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 3388 [post_author] => 638 [post_date] => 2018-04-01 17:09:40 [post_date_gmt] => 2018-04-01 07:09:40 [post_content] => Three essential tools for every handyman or woman. Includes our magnetic WristBuddy, an extendable, flexible magnetic flashlight and our three function COB headlamp!

1 - Magnetic WristBuddy:

The magnetic WristBuddy keeps everything within easy reach whether you’re under the hood, squeezing into a bathroom cabinet, up a ladder or just nailing a few 4×2’s together! Designed to hold lots of screws, nails, nuts and washers, the magnets are amply strong enough to also hold drill bits, hex keys, bolts, screwdrivers and even spanners. Made from extremely durable 1680D Oxford cloth, your WristBuddy will be with you for years to come.

2 - Magnetic, Extendable, Flexible Flashlight

  The perfect tool for finding that lost screw that rolled under your workbench or the pins that dropped onto the carpet! This bright, COB LED flashlight extends to a full 60cm (2ft), has a flexible neck and a strong magnet in the lens surround. It's also a wonderful aid for anyone with bad knees.

3 - Three Function COB LED Headlamp

How often have you wished for better lighting while doing a job? All you needed was a third hand with a flashlight, right? This tough, fully adjustable headlamp uses the latest Chip On Board LED technology for maximum performance. Set it for bright, normal or strobe function with a click of the switch. Weighing just 65 grams (2.25 oz), including the three AAA batteries, our headlamp can be worn hour after hour. And because it's both shock and water resistant, it's great for camping and fishing as well as in the home and workshop.

Special offer:

Bought separately, these three items are currently selling for a combined total of $27.40. For this week only, we have packaged all three for just $17.50 including free delivery. Please note that there is a limit of three combo packs per customer. [add_to_cart id="3388"]   [post_title] => The DIYer's Combo Deal [post_excerpt] => Three essential tools for every handyman or woman. Includes our magnetic WristBuddy, an extendable, flexible magnetic flashlight and our high-powered COB headlamp! The perfect gift for any DIYer! Maximum of three combo packs per customer. [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => open [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => the-diyers-combo-deal [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2019-03-11 00:01:10 [post_modified_gmt] => 2019-03-11 00:01:10 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => http://deals.thediy.market/?post_type=product&p=3388 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => product [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 11 [filter] => raw )
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DIY TV Lift Cabinet

DIY TV Lift Cabinet

Cut holes for Speaker Wires and AC outlets

– Carefully measure where your AC outlet is on the wall.  Cut a rectangle hole in the back of the cabinet with a skill saw to allow plug access to the AC outlet.  If you don’t have a wall outlet, you will need to bring power up through the bottom.- Cut a hole in the bottom to bring your speaker wires up from the floor.  If your speakers will go up through the top of the cabinet, you can drill holes in the top for that later.

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We are ready to cut the top flap door in the top and install the piano hinges.   Dry fit this and convince yourself that everything lines up and is flat here by laying the top on the carcass.  Note how wide your TV is and where it will hit the bottom of the top when mounted on the lift.  The measurements here are for my 60″ Samsung TV which is 60″ wide and 1.5″ thick.

– Transfer the rectangle to the top panel “F” as shown in the Top Panel View drawing.   Drill a hole that is wide enough to insert your skill saw blade in the 4 top panel corners of your marked lines.

– Stick the skill saw blade in the holes and CAREFULLY cut your lines to remove the flap door rectangle.  This is scrap wood.

– Get a helper to help you move the carcass of of your work table now.  Put it on a floor or another set of saw horses nearby.  You will need the flat work surface to get the piano hinge and “FD” on the top.

– Make sure that the Flap Door “FD” piece you cut will fit nicely in the top hole with at least 1/8″ clearance on each side.

– Line up the Piano Hinge with the back of the “FD” top and you will see that the “FD” top needs to be trimmed to cut a slot as shown in the Top Panel View drawing.  Mark this slot and carefully use your skill saw to cut this.   Use 60 grit sandpaper to make sure everything lines up nicely and has clearance.

– Install the edge tape to all 4 inside areas on the top “F”.  Install the edge tape on the 4 sides of the flap door “FD”.  Do not put it in the hinge slot.  Make sure there is still good clearance in the hole.

– See the videos for edge tape installation tips.  When the iron is hot, carefully apply the edge tape as you did on your test pieces.  Cut the edges carefully with a sharp box cutter.  Using 100 grit paper ONLY, remove the excess edge tape as you did in your test pieces.

– Install the hinge screws per the video tips.  The idea is to align the bottom of the hinge to be flush with your work table top.   Mark the holes and install the hinge to the flap door first.    Next take the Flap door with dangling hinge and attach this to the Top.

– Make sure it lifts up and down smoothly.  Carefully bring it over to your carcass and lay it on top.  Verify that it is where you want it to be and swings up and down nicely.

– Put in small pieces of scrap as stop block on the right side of the carcass where needed to support the door when it descends.  glue and clamp these stops.

-DO NOT attach the top yet.  We will do this with L brackets in the Final Assembly.

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Building the doors and front panel can be a very rewarding part of this project.  In my opinion, they quickly become beautiful pieces for relatively low effort.  Definitely watch the video clips on the door and panel sections.  The rails are the top and bottom pieces.  The stiles are the left and right vertical members. The rails and stiles all need to have groves cut in them on the table saw.  The center panels edges will fit in the grooves.

– Set the table saw blade height for just over 1/4″.  Set the fence to be 1/8″ from the blade.  Make two passes through at this setting to guarantee that the slot is clear of material.

– Since the 1/4″ plywood panels are 3/16″ thick,  you need to move the fence 1/16″ to the right.  Make 2 passes through again.  Test this process out a few times on some scrap to get your technique down.

– Dry fit your door together with the 2 rails, 2 stiles and the panel in the center.  Note that the front right door is shown in the front view drawing.  The front right door has different size stiles for the right and left.  The left side door is shown in the Side view drawing.    Bring your dry fit door over to the carcass and convince yourself that it will work.  You should see a 3/8″ overlap on the 3/4″ wood edge where the hinge side will be.  Note that on the right front door, the left edge of the door ends to the left of the “D” part as shown in the drawings.

– Slip in your panel and with each door, put some glue on the top and bottom of the stiles.  The panel can float on the inside.  Put a clamp on each side of the rails and press the glue gently until you see some squeeze out.  Let is dry for a few hours.

–  Build the front panel assembly up in the same manner as the doors.  Carefully verify that the test fit will fit in place with the right side door leaving about an 1/8″ gap on the right side of the front panel assembly.  The left side of the front panel assembly should be centered on the 3/4″ wide edge of piece “A3”.  You will need long clamps for this part.

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The 1/2 overlay hinges are forgiving for left/right alignment. This can be adjusted if you are slightly off in your measurements. Definitely use 2 pieces of scrap plywood to test your hinges before drilling into the real parts.

– Install one hinge centered 4″ away from the top.  Install the other hinge 4″ away from the bottom. Mark a line in each 4″ position on the doors.   If your hinge has a template then use that, otherwise, hold your hinge and carefully trace the outline of the bottom of the hinge on the door.   Referencing the picture below, the hinge should be about 1/4″ away from the door edge.

– On a drill press, carefully hold the door or build up a platform near the drill press to hold the door stable on the drill press.  Using a Forstner drill bit, drill into the outline you made.   Test the hinge to see if it will fit in your hole.   You may need to use a smaller Forstner bit to remove additional material.  You should set the stop on the drill press so you dont drill too far into the door panel.  When you have removed enough material and the hinge fits in the hole, mark, drill and screw it in.

– Referencing the picture and the test piece you made, mark the cabinet side of the hinge.  You can remove the cabinet side of the hing plate with the quick release.    Install both the plates and then click the doors into place.

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