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Did you like the amazing bed in a box we’ve featured in the past? If you say yes, then you are probably going to like this slightly different version, too!
Inspired by the original, this twin sized bed in a box was built to be smaller and simpler so that it can be stored under another bed.
If you want a nice extra bed that you can hide when not in use, this collapsible bed is the one for you!
Though a bed in a box looks complicated to build, it’s definitely easier than it looks and we’re confident you can make it.
Is this going to be your next woodworking challenge? :)
You’ll need these materials:
- 12 pcs of 6″ Fence Gate Hinges
- 3/4″ Wood Screws
- 2″ Wood Screws
- 3 pcs of 1″x2″x8′ Pine Board
- 10 pcs of 1″x3″x8′ Pine Board
- 2 pcs of 1″x8″x8′ Pine Board
- 3 pcs of 1″x10″x8′ Pine Board
- Wood Stain
And these tools:
- Cordless Drill
- Table Saw
- Measuring Tape
1″x2″x8′ Pine Board: TBD – these cuts were made after assembly; they get a little complicated with the hinges in the way
1″x3″x8′ Pine Board:
- (20) 39″ Lengths
1″x8″x8′ Pine Board:
- (2) 26.75″ Lengths
- (2) 28.25″ Lentghs
1″x10″x8′ Pine Board:
- (2) 40.5″ Lengths
- (2) 39″ Lengths
- (2) 10″ Lengths
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Here’s a video demonstration of the assembly:
Design and Materials: I should preface any description of the design by mentioning that a picture really is worth a thousand words, especially in this case. If any of these explanations don’t make sense, be sure to check out the photos to clarify (more so during the other steps than this one; these pictures are just a compilation of my poorly organized design sketches).
The design is simple enough; it consists of two main parts/systems: the “box” and the slat/rail system. The “box” is a simple box, cut in half, which contains the extending sides. In order for the box to be able to close completely, the sides (and hinges) have to be offset by several inches. This will be covered in greater detail in the next step.
The slat/rail system consists of a 1″x2″ pine board running along both sides of the extended “box”. This rail is lined with small, trapezoidal 3/4″x3/4″ pieces that engage with the dovetail joints in each slat. This ensures that the sides cannot extend once the slats are in place.
The Box: First, construct the two halves of the box by screwing together one of the 40.5″ pieces with the 39″ piece and the two 10″ sides. See the first picture for clarification. Yes, I know this will leave a gap along the bottom, and I do mostly regret it….but in the long run you’ll almost never see it because it will almost always be covered when in the “closed” position. The first of many potential improvements, but as I was on a deadline I let it slide.
Next, the complicated part. In order for the sides to be able to close without interfering with each other, they must be offset by a couple of inches. I calculated a 2″ offset and that seemed to work alright.
In order for the design to function correctly, the shorter end (the 26.75″ one) must be the “offset” side. That means that when you attach the 26.75″ side to one of the halves of the box, the hinges must be set 2″ into the box. The hinges for the 28.25″ side are then attached flush to the other half of the box. Once again, see the pictures for clarity. I tried to take some good closeups so that you can get the idea.
For the other side, flip the 26.75″ and 28.25″ lengths. I mention this because I accidentally forgot and had to take everything off and re-do it.
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